Category Archives: Writing

Colour composition

To be able to use fonts appropriately, so that they complement the design rather than clash with it, designers need to master some of the skills of the typographer.

Font Basics

As a digital designer, fonts are a basic tool of your trade. The decisions that you make about which fonts or typefaces to use, and how to use them, can have a profound effect on the appearance and readability of your documents.

Since the advent of page-layout applications and the ready availability of a huge array of fonts, it often seems that many of the finer skills of the typographer have fallen by the wayside.

The choice of font tells your readers a lot about a publication before they even begin reading it. The mark of the true designer is knowing how to use – and, equally important, how not to use – fonts to give your documents the maximum possible impact.

What is a font?

The particular design of a set of characters – including all the letters of the alphabet, Arabic numerals, punctuation marks, and other symbols, such as accented characters – makes up a font or typeface. It’s worth remembering that in today’s world of page-layout applications, computer fonts are software.

This will help you to understand the different formats that fonts can take, the ways they can be bought and used, and how to deal with the problems and cross-platform issues that may arise when using them.

How fonts work

Computers encode each character in a font in the form of a number, turning the alphabet into a set of numbers that all applications can then interpret. On screen, however, what you see are graphic shapes of the members of the character set, which are reproduced by the particular font software you have chosen.

Fonts are distinguished by various graphical aspects that each font’s set of characters shares. For example, all the lowercase letters of the alphabet in a particular font share a common ‘x-height’ (see diagram below). Further variation comes from the different styles and weights that may be produced for each font ‘family’, such as italic and bold.

Font types and qualities

There are three main categories of font: serif, sans serif, and decorative.

Serif fonts

These fonts are distinguished by the short counterstrokes, or serifs, on the ends of their letters. Very generally, serif fonts add authority and classicism, while sans serif fonts convey modernity and immediacy. Serif fonts are considered easier to read for extended periods, so they tend to be used for the body text of books and newspapers.

Sans serif fonts

These give a clean visual image and are especially good for headlines and boxed text, although their uniformity tends to make them less legible in long passages of text. Having said this, these qualities are not always so clear-cut. For example, the large x-height of Helvetica – a sans serif font – makes it easily readable when used for body text.

Decorative fonts

As the name implies, these fonts should be reserved for decoration and do not make for easily read blocks of text.

Corporate environments

Designing documents for corporate use brings its own set of complicating factors, demanding fonts that combine functionality with the appropriate aesthetic qualities to reinforce the company image or brand.

  • If you are creating documents for other people to use, you will need to consider compatibility. Are they using PCs or Macs? What software do they use? Which fonts do they have pre-installed?
  • Establish a clear set of rules for the use of corporate fonts in different situations and make sure that these rules are agreed with other departments, such as marketing and editorial.

As you’ll see above what distinguishes one font from another are the different graphical characteristics of its set of glyphs – the slope of its ‘counters’, the relative size of its ‘x-height’, the shape of its ‘descenders’ and height of its ‘ascenders’, for example – all of which will have been carefully designed to make a specific impression.

Further variation comes from the different styles and weights that may be produced for each font ‘family’: plain (often called ‘Roman’ or ‘normal’), italic, semibold, bold, extra bold, condensed, thin, light, and so on. The differences between fonts, and among styles and weights, can be marked, or they may be very subtle.

Although these words (above) are all set in exactly the same size type, the differences in their appearance are pronounced. Note particularly the relative sizes of the x-heights: Verdana’s (Every) large x-height is the main reason why that font looks bigger than the others.

Fonts and design: basic rules

  • Before you start designing a publication, read the text and think about the readership
  • Begin any job with just two fonts. Use more only if you are sure you need them
  • Invest in a specimen book showing the characteristics of different fonts or compile one yourself. Use a font utility program to print out custom specimen sheets for the fonts already on your computer
  • Use tried and tested combinations – for example, a serif font such as Bembo for body text, with a sans serif such as Franklin Gothic Heavy or Gill Sans Extra Bold for headings. Some font families, such as Adobe Stone, contain a combination of well-matched serif and sans serif versions
  • Keep body text between 9 point (for books) and 12 point (for newsletters and marketing materials)
  • Use leading (the spacing between lines of text) to aid legibility. One rule of thumb is that body text should have leading around 2 points greater than the size of the type. For example if the text is set in 9 point, then the leading should be at least 11 point. Most design software automatically applies leading 120 per cent of the type size, giving 12 point leading with 10 point type
  • Do not use ALL CAPS or underlining to highlight text. Bold or italics (but not both together) are better for emphasis. However, avoid using any of these devices for long blocks of text – it makes the text harder to read
  • Ensure your chosen fonts have all the cuts, styles, and weights necessary to set the text. For example, an animal encyclopedia will probably require an italic cut in which to set Latin species names

Follow the conventions of colour composition to create better images.

Within a scene, we tend to see relatively large, plain elements as a backdrop to smaller, more distinct ones. The latter catch our attention first and seem closer. This principle is known as ‘figure and ground’, and is important for several reasons.

First, it contradicts the assumption that smaller items will necessarily seem less significant: in fact, they may well dominate.

Second, it tells us that a composition in which figure and ground are not immediately distinguishable may seem lifeless and uninvolving. Elements should be differentiated by size and colour.

Third, the principle of figure and ground combines with our knowledge of colour theory to help us understand the impressions created by colour within a composition.

Warm hues (in the red part of the colour wheel) tend to advance towards the viewer, while cool (blue) hues recede. Therefore, applying a warm colour to a figure will accentuate its tendency to jump out, and cool colours will encourage a ground to recede; reversing this will tend to negate the effect, giving a more balanced and less striking impression.

A small splash of warm colour on a cool background will be more pleasing than the reverse.

It might be assumed that figure elements should also be brighter than grounds, but in fact dark figures against a bright ground are much more acceptable to the human eye. We write in black on a white background, despite having long had the technology to do the reverse, because it seems more natural.

Changing the value (lightness) of the ground can have a strong effect on an image as a whole, especially in graphical compositions made up of uniform colour fields. Light figures on a dark ground seem to emerge from shadows or darkness, making them seem luminous and often mysterious or foreboding, an effect that was fully exploited in Renaissance painting.

A midtoned background either forces figure colours into a narrower range of values (all lighter or all darker than the ground), resulting in a muted or hazy effect. Or, by allowing some figures to be lighter and others darker than the ground, prevents the composition being interpreted in terms of spatial recession, an effect that is visually disorienting but can be graphically rewarding.

Elements that differ most in value from the background will always draw the eye first, almost regardless of differences in hue.

Colours are intensified by being placed on a very dark or very light ground, but their temperature and tendency to advance or recede may also be affected: blue on white can advance, while red always advances against black, even in extremely dark shades, as is powerfully demonstrated in the well-known paintings by Mark Rothko.

Repetition, or rhythm, is an important feature of many compositions. The use of colour can contribute to the effects of repeating lines and shapes: graduation of lightness and saturation can tell us which way movement is going, or reinforce the impression of forms fading off into the distance.

More distant objects appear lighter, less saturated, and less distinct, an effect that can be created by blurring or ‘feathering’ elements or reducing the detail with which they are drawn.

Progressive sequences of colour lead the eye and make the composition more dynamic, while repetitive sequences give a sense of order and balance. Closely spaced repetition of hues creates optical mixing, giving the overall effect of a continuously coloured surface. Similarly, exact repetition of lines, shapes or colour fields – pattern – can allow an area to appear uniform even though it may contain a large amount of detail.

We instinctively interpret colour and form as if they are part of a real-world scene. The photo above shows an interior receding into the distance. Reduced to a few simple colour fields (below), the image gives a similar impression of perspective and recession. Such effects play a part in how we ‘read’ any graphical composition, whether or not it aims to depict reality.

This carefully judged composition sets warm, advancing earth tones against cool, receding blues to give an immediate impression of scale and distance, despite comprising only simple forms. Note the use of repetition and leading lines.
Agent: Digital Vision;
Artist: Nigel Sandor

Top left: A natural figure/ground relationship. A large field of cool hue is interrupted by darker, smaller fields of warm hue.
Bottom left: With the colours reversed, the cool figures are equally well distinguished, but appear more numinous.

Defeating expectations of figure/ground colour relationships can create a more harmonious composition.
Top centre: Normal temperature relationship, reversed value relationship.
Bottom centre: Normal value relationship, reversed temperature relationship.

Playing with proportional relationships.
Top right: Because the large shapes are more regular, darker and warmer than the negative space, they tend to appear as figures in front of a ground.
Bottom right: With figure/ground cues now thoroughly confused, we flip between seeing blue discs and a red arch.

Progressive colour sequences are dynamic, suggesting motion or depth.
Top left: Increasing values lead the eye towards the centre of the composition.
Bottom left: Deprived of a contrasting ground, the dark central figure appears to recede into shadow. The lighter rings at the outside also recede, giving a less dynamic effect than above.

Repetitive colour sequences are static, discouraging the eye from travelling in any direction.
Top right: Contrasting shades preserve some of the depth effect created by the rings. Note the slight optical illusion of a spiral, which occurs when rings are broken or partly concealed.
Bottom right: Complementary colours further reduce any dynamic effect.

The repetition of colour and form within patterns such as this tartan creates a sense of order and balance which prevents them seeming garish or distracting.

Author’s URL: Alistair Dabbs and Alastair Campbellwww.ilex-press.com/digit.

21 Web Design Tips from Web Design Gurus to Beginners (featuring mR rOGGERS)

There’s no better way to learn it right than from those who’s already succeeded. We’ve interviewed quite a number of web design gurus asking them to share their experiences and give advice for beginning web designers. Below are the 21 useful tips from web design PROs to newbies. Read and learn!

Learn HTML. If you’re producing content for the web, it’s going to be presented in HTML. It doesn’t matter what’s powering it on the back-end, whether it’s PHP, .NET, ASP, Java, whatever: all that stuff has to produce HTML. As a coder, writing clean HTML will ensure that your sites don’t break. As a designer, a good grasp of HTML allows you to know how your designs can be realized. All in all, knowing the building blocks of your craft are crucial for success in the field.
- Dan Mall

Pay particular attention to typography. Regardless of whether print products are on the decline, and if the ‘paperless office’ will ever arrive, logo design will always be needed, so go for it.
- David Airey

I’d tell to learn everything they can about the Web — design, usability, accessibility, programming — because all those disciplines help you at some point. Think up ideas and then build and execute them, from design and programming all the way to promoting it through nontraditional means. The things you learn from creating something from nothing on the Web are limitless.
- Mike Rundle

Being good is never enough. You have to be able to justify your decisions beyond, “I think it looks good.” Specialize.
- Lea Alcantara

Guide your users; don’t smother them.
- Rob Weychert

Users can always tell the difference (even if subconsciously) between low- and hi-quality design, just as they can between easy to use and difficult, so always put in the extra effort to make your product that much better than it would otherwise have been.
- Dan Rubin

1. Love what you do!
2. Never stop learning.
4. Have a good portfolio.
5. Keep connected.
6. Organize your time.
7. Construct a good reputation.
- Mr Roggers

The web is the best meritocracy you can get. If you think you have the talent, put your stuff out there. Learn as much as you can about the technology – if you think that’s not a creative thing to do, you’re wrong, the industry desperately needs creative minds who know the technology. It’s the best thing you can do.
- Michael Ewing

Challenge professionals, try to be better. This race for leadership will make you to develop.
- Fedor Drobov

Don’t let the technology drive – the idea should inform all aspects of the project.
- Shannon Darrough

1. Study your craft: put in the time and be patient
2. Don’t hold back: do what you want and feel is right. Dream and be as creative as you want to be. Be different and make each piece mind blowing. Also try and take the positives out of each criticism.
3. Pay your dues: not every idea is original and we all need a helping hand sometime, so give respect where it’s due.
4. Step your game up: raise the bar a little each time. It’s the only way to get better.
- Kultar Ruprai

Focus on the details. Focus more. When you can’t stand it, focus on them even more. Stay flexible. Software and technology will always change. Creativity comes first.
- Nathan Heleine

•Check award sites for inspiration.
•Read as much design magazines as you can.
•Find some good boards that can help you if you get stuck with a project.
•And always make a manuscript before you starting to produce.
- Joel Schafer

Most designers just take whatever popular CSS methods they find online and use them at face value. They do nothing but cut-and-paste. Most designers remove the text from their headings and replace it with background images to use fancy header graphics on their pages and implement rollovers on image-links. This is horrible because the text is gone when images are turned off, but very few people seem to care. If you can challenge yourself to actually learn CSS instead of copying-and-pasting it from other people, then you will understand it too, and you’ll know how to use it right.
- Christian Montoya

Study Fine Art. Learn the rules of balance, color and space. These above all else will set you apart from your competition. Take a website, print it out in toto, place it on the wall and critique it as if it were a painting. Don’t be afraid to look into other disciplines to find your inspiration.
- Chris J. Davis

First, be sure your heart is in it.
Second, the best thing you can do is find yourself a good mentor–someone who can teach you what reading books, articles, and magazines cannot.
Third, don’t just listen to and learn from the conversation, get involved in it. Establishing a reputation is a good thing but even more important is establishing a network of colleagues.
Forth, use what you have learned in the past to assist you in your new projects, but don’t let it confine your creativity to come up with new ways of solving problems.
- Nick Finck

A lot of designers are focused on creativity; solving a problem through creative and lateral thinking. When it comes down to actually implementing the solution, designers are generally terrible at it—that’s why in the days of print, you had designers and art directors doing the layouts, and ‘art workers’ making them work.
- Mark Boulton

It’s a good idea to broaden your spectrum of design knowledge into areas like print design but also into architecture, furniture design, craft arts, painting, etc. Learning about other areas of design has been invaluable to me when bringing myself back to the web, particularly in terms of style and usability.
- Natalie Jost

Don’t be afraid to charge what you are worth. Your portfolio site is your business card, make it memorable. Keep regular office hours. And love the fact that you are your own boss!
- Jonathan Nicol

1.Learn to sell yourself.
2.Get the work you like to do – life’s too short.
3.Try to approach every new project like a potential portfolio piece no matter how mundane they appear.
4.Under-promise, over-delivered.
5.Keep learning.
- Rob Morris

A good understanding of basic design always needs to come first. Technology will come and go but the best thing we as designers can bring to any project is our creativity and design sense. It’s also important to develop a thick skin and an ability to talk about and often educate clients about design.
Also, it sounds boring, but it’s all about developing relationships. People like to work with people that they like and know. Part of building relationships is being reliable, meeting deadlines, never rescheduling unless there is no possible alternative. Many clients think designers tend toward flakiness and I get a perverse sense of enjoyment from proving that wrong.
- Amy Greiner

Live & Learn,

Author’s URL: Helen Walkerhttp://www.designinterviews.com/?p=678

Photoshop For Beginners

Not a day goes by that I don’t get a call about how to use Adobe Photoshop. Actually, the phone call starts with something like “I have Corel Photopaint, can’t I use it?” After my usual, NO, with a smile, I say that “the world” uses Photoshop so it is the one to learn. Then the question goes something like “I have Corel Draw. Why can’t I just use it?” I then tell them that Corel and Photoshop are two different types of programs and each have their strengths.

view larger image

1. Photoshop is a pixel based program.

view larger image

2. Photo-realistic images are Photoshop’s strong suit.

Why Photoshop
First, let’s clear the air about Photoshop. It is a pixel based program that creates an image by making it consist of millions of pixels (figure 1). Unlike Corel draw or Adobe Illustrator, which are vector based programs that excel in spot color images and images with hard edges, Photoshop LOVES images that are more photorealistic (figure 2). In fact, it is THE program that “the world” uses to color separate process color, simulated process color and index color. If you don’t know these terms, checkout the article titled Simulated Process, Index or What? on this site.

In this short article, it will be very hard to tell you everything you ever wanted to know about Photoshop. My goal here is to get you up to speed and at least out of the box with the program. Like other programs, Photoshop can be OVERWHELMING and very intimidating. Just keep in mind the age old 80/20 rule. As it applies to Photoshop, you will use 20% of the program 80% of the time. It is actually more like the 90/10 rule.

Where to get Photoshop
Photoshop is the flagship product of Adobe Systems at http://www.adobe.com. It retails for around $650 and as of this writing, version 7.0 just shipped. It is always nice to have the lastest and greatest version, but frankly, you can do everything I show here (using version 6.0) with version 5.0 or higher. If you are a student, teach, or work for a school, you may be eligible for an “educator version” from places like http://www.softwareshowcase.com.

Photoshop File Types and Resolutions
Photoshop will let you “Open” a wide variety of files including, TIF, JPG, GIF, EPS, PSD, AI and others. If you open a file that is vector based like one from Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop will convert the file from mathematical vectors to small pixels. This is called Rasterizing a file.

The important point here is to keep the file resolution high enough for the image to remain sharp. It is generally taught that a file needs to be at 300 dpi at the final size in order for it to remain crisp. In T-Shirt printing, you can get away with file resolutions of 200 to 250 dpi at the final size. The default setting for opening vector files in Photoshop is 72 dpi. Figure 3 shows a magnified view of a file that is 300 dpi and one that is 72 dpi. Obviously, the 72 dpi file will be softer.

view larger image

4. Keep your Palettes organized for optimal work area.

Photoshop Basics
Let’s start with some basics. I will assume you have installed Photoshop and followed the steps in their excellent manual. The program also comes with tutorials and my website has many excellent articles on specific uses of Photoshop.

You will notice Photoshop has a variety of items on the right of the screen that have divider tabs on top. These are called Palettes and you can “hide” them or “show” them. If you go to the Window pull down menu you will see the Palette list. You don’t need all of the Palettes open for basic work. In fact, the one’s I like “show” are: Layers, Channels, History, Actions, Info. The rest you can close by clicking in the upper right X in each Palette. You can group Palettes together by “docking” them. You can also click and drag on a Palette name and “undock” it. The idea here is to keep the working area clear of clutter. Keep the Palettes docked and to the right of the page (figure 4).

The top Menu bar has lots of “Pull Down” menus and there is a typical “Toolbar” on the right.

Let’s “Open” a file. Go to the File menu and then to Open. Search your hard disk for a test file, or if needed, find the Samples folder that comes with Photoshop. Open or load a file. If the file is an EPS or AI (Adobe Illustrator) file, you will be asked what resolution you want to open the file. Remember, keep the file around 200 dpi the final size.

view larger image

5. Check your File Mode.

view larger image

6. Check your Print Size.

Check File Mode
This is where beginners go wrong. You open a file and don’t bother to learn about the file. At this point, the file should be RGB and not CMYK. Yes, Photoshop will do process color separations called CMYK, but for file manipulation and adjustment you should work in RGB mode. To see the Mode of the file go to Image/Mode. If CMYK is checked, click on RGB. The file should also be 8-bit. See figure 5.

Check File Size and Resolution
Next, you MUST know the actual resolution and size of the image. Otherwise you could be working on a very small file and not know it. Go to Image/Image Size. The resolution should be 200 dpi or higher in pixels per Inch. If it say pixels per CM, change this to inches. The physical size should be the final print size (figure 6).

What if the file size and resolution is not correct? This is where it gets hard. Let’s say your file is only 5″ in width and 72 dpi, AND you want it to print 10″ wide. In the Image Size window, under Document Size, if you uncheck Resample Image, you will see that all three windows are now “locked” together. If you change the file size to 10″ notice that the resolution changed to 36! 36 dpi is a LONG WAY from 200.

The problem you have is the file is very low resolution. Your only real choice is to check Resample Image and change the width to 10″ and the resolution to 200. Photoshop “upsamples” the image. But, it has to guess at where to place all the extra pixels and what color to make the pixels. Images can get softer when upsampled. If this is the only thing you have to work with then so be it. If you can get a higher resolution file from the client, by all means to it.

view larger image

7. The Gamma Wizard is your friend.

view larger image

8. Use the Tone Curve to avoid muddy prints.

How Does The File Look?
Next, let’s look at the file. How does it look? How do you know that what you are seeing on your monitor is actually what the file really looked like on your clients monitor? An easy way to get close is to do a Monitor Calibration using a program supplied with Photoshop called Adobe Gamma. You can access it on Mac and PC through Control Panel. Adobe Gamma let’s you adjust your monitor to display the image more accurately. It has a step- by-step Wizard that guides you through the changes (figure 7).

Let’s assume the monitor is calibrated. How does the file look? Typically, there are two basic adjustments you do to a file. Make it lighter, and make it sharper.

Using the Tone Curve
In screen printing, images tend to get muddy when printed. If you have a file with lots of detail in the shadow areas, this will probably be lost when screen printed. Now is the time to adjust the “density levels” of the file. Go to the Image pull down menu and then to Adjust/Curves. The Tone Curve is a very powerful tool. It lets you adjust specific tonal areas from the lightest “highlights” to the darkest “shadows.” By placing your cursor in the middle of the curve “midtones” and dragging the mouse up or down, you can lighten and darken the medium or midtones in an image (figure 8). By clicking on the very top corner and dragging the mouse in, you can make the highlights lighter. Play around with the Tone Curve and see what happens.

view larger image

9. Preview Sharpened images and compare to the original.

view larger image

10. “Marching Ants” show selected areas.

view larger image

11. Layers are an invaluable element of Photshop.

Sharpening Images
Typcially, an image can be made sharper. Even if the file came from an agency or large licensed job, don’t assume that their artist knew your needs. Images that are screen printed, not only get darker but they get softer. You MUST make them as sharp as possible.

Go to Filter/Sharpen/Unsharp Masking. Don’t let the “unsharp” term fool you. This term came from the old process camera days and basically means is only sharpens areas of high contrast. It sharpens but keeps it less apparent that you have sharpened the image.

Set the Amount slider to 200, the Radius to 1 pixel and the Threshold to 8. How does the image look? To compare the original to the sharpened version, uncheck the Preview check box. Click it on and off and compare the results (figure 9). If you can’t see much difference, move the Amount slider higher. Go all the way to 500% if you need. Don’t get the image too grainy. Remember, Photoshop displays images a little sharper than they really are which means you can go a little too far and be OK.

Working on Select Areas
If you want to apply a Tone Curve adjustment or apply Unsharp Masking to select areas, you can choose these areas with one of the Selection Tools on the Toolbar. Click on the tool that looks like a Lasso – yes it is called the Lasso Tool. Now, simply hold the mouse button down and draw around an area you want to change. When you release the mouse, you will have little moving dashes, commonly called “marching ants” (figure 10). You have just Selected an area. Now, anything you do ONLY happens to this area. Think of this like “selecting” an object in Corel or Illustrator. To remove the marching ants, go to the Select pull down menu and to De-Select. If you want to select square or round areas, the top left tool is called the Marquee Tool. It does the same thing as the Lasso tool only it does it to square or round areas.

Channels and Layers
If you setup the working space the way I showed, you should have the Channels Palette and Layers Palette open. People always get these confused. Here are the rules. The Channels Palette is used to create color separations that can be output. Channels print. The Layers Palette is used to create or build the image. You use the Layers Palette to put various components together including adding Type to an image. Layers don’t print. Simple.

You will notice that your Channels Palette shows four channels. RGB, R, G and B. Your test file probably shows only one Layer called Background.

Figure 11 shows a design that is made up of lots of layers. Images on a layer can be moved around, effects added to them, Tone Curve adjustments made, etc. When you click on a Layer, you make it “active” and available for changes. You can also select areas for adjustment using the Marquee or Lasso tools.

Other Adjustments and Effects
In this short article, there isn’t space to cover all the tools in Photoshop. Here are a few:

Dodge/Burn Tool
If you want to lighten or darken select areas of an image, select the “lollipop” looking tool. This tool with lighten areas of an image. Before you use many of these tools, you need to know what “size” brush is applied to the tool. Thin of the Brushes like this. If you want to draw a small line on a wall, you need a very small brush. If you want to paint a large two foot path of paint, you would need a very large brush (or have to do LOTS of strokes with a small brush). Many of the “painting, drawing and adjustment” tools in the Toolbar can have a Brush tips assigned to them. In Photoshop 6.0, the Brushes Palette is available from the top menu. In earlier version, you have to “Show” the Brushes Palette.

To lighten a large area of an image, choose a brush of 200 pixels. Hold down the mouse button and move the mouse around over the image. To darken an image, hold down the Alt key on the PC or Option key on a MAC. This changes the tool to the “burn” tool. Do the same movements and watch the area get darker.

Airbrush Tool
If you need to paint areas of an image, you can “spray” color out of the airbrush. The Toolbar has two color squares near the bottom. The color “in front” is called the Foreground color. It is a color you paint with any of the painting tools. The color behind is called the Background color and is the color that you “replace” in an image when you erase or delete areas.

If you click on the Foreground color, you get a window called the Color Picker. Simply pick the color you want to paint and say OK. You will notice that the Foreground color is now the picked color.

To use the Airbrush tool, pick a color, choose a brush tip and hold the mouse button down and start to move the Airbrush around. Fun!!

Filters
A filter is actually an effect. The name is confusing. There are hundreds of filters in Photoshop. You can apply most filters to entire images or just to selected areas. Try this. Use the Lasso tool to select an area of an image. Go to Filter/Adjust/Twirl. Set the Angle to 100 and see what happens. Neat!

Color Separations
This article is NOT about doing color separations. That is the next step.

Summary
So, what have we learned. We know that if we use a client’s file or scan directly into Photoshop, the image should be 200 dpi or higher at the final size. Upsampling is not always a great solution. If the image is too dark or light, use the Tone Curve or the Dodge/Burn tool to fix the entire image or select areas. If the image is soft, use Unsharp Masking to fix it. You can build an image using Layers.